Compared by formula

Macaroni and Cheese

117 recipes, read so you don't have to.

Every published macaroni and cheese recipe is a different answer to the same few questions. We resolved all 117 of them to grams, then read what cooks said happened when they changed something.

117Recipes
101Sites
7,485Reviews read
45,765Cook ratings
Flickr qmnonic 123431456--Kraft Dinner and veggie dogs.
Matt MacGillivray from Toronto, Ontario, Canada · CC BY 2.0
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The one most cooks reach for

Nothing picked yet, so this is simply the most-trusted of the 117. Pick a style and the answer changes.

Tonight: these change the pick

The recipe

Make it

Weights are ours, converted from the published measures.

Ingredients

    Method

      Why this one

      How this recipe compares to the rest

      Two of these decide which style it is. The rest are just where this recipe has a personality of its own.

      Every recipe in the same group, measured the same way. The shaded band is the middle half of the group; the line is its midpoint; the dot is this recipe.

      middle half of the group the group's midpoint this recipe
      Change it on purpose

      Three edits, written for this recipe

      Each one is measured across all 117 recipes and then converted into this recipe's own amounts. Every edit costs something. The cost is on the card.

      Make it reheats worse

      More milk or cream holds water in the crumb, so it eats chewier and stays soft longer.

      Costs you: No side effect showed up in the reviews.

      strongest lever we measured · 97 bakes

      Make it richer · sharper

      More cheese keeps the fat and water bound together, so the sauce stays smooth instead of turning grainy.

      Costs you: No side effect showed up in the reviews.

      strong lever · 198 bakes

      Make it smoother

      More thickener thickens the sauce and steadies it.

      Costs you: No side effect showed up in the reviews.

      strong lever · 235 bakes

      The map

      How all the recipes compare

      One dot per published recipe, placed by what it is actually made of, not by what its title claims. Dots that sit together have near-identical formulas.

      Positions are worked out from the formula, not measured in a kitchen. Good for comparing one recipe to another, not for reading an exact value.

      other recipes most-reviewed alternatives your pick

      What cooks found out

      What cooks reported after making these

      What people actually changed, and what they said happened. Where cooks contradict each other we kept both sides rather than averaging them into something nobody said.

      Reserve some of the starchy pasta cooking water and stir it into the sauce to loosen and stabilize it.

      33 cooks reported this

      Use a 9x13 dish when doubling the recipe.

      30 cooks reported this

      The recipe easily doubles or triples for larger gatherings.

      26 cooks reported this

      Make it in advance and follow the recipe's reheating instructions for best results.

      24 cooks reported this

      Prepare through step 7 the day before, then bake fresh the next day.

      24 cooks reported this

      Warm the milk in the microwave first before whisking it into the sauce.

      15 cooks reported this

      Substitute Greek yogurt or sour cream for cream cheese or part of the dairy for a tangy creaminess without extra heaviness.

      13 cooks reported this

      Doubling the recipe adds about 30 minutes to the cook time.

      12 cooks reported this

      Add a bit of milk and mix it in just before reheating.

      10 cooks say yes · 10 say the opposite · we kept both

      Shred cheese fresh from a block instead of buying pre-shredded bagged cheese, for a smoother and more stable sauce.

      15 cooks say yes · 3 say the opposite · we kept both

      Boil extra pasta and stir it in to soak up sauce that came out thinner or soupier than expected.

      10 cooks say yes · 6 say the opposite · we kept both

      Popular advice is not always advice we can measure. Cooks described 60 different changes in these reviews. Only 3 of them show up as a difference we can actually detect when we compare recipes side by side. Where an effect does not show up, that is not proof it does nothing. It means any effect is smaller than we can measure.

      The counts on each card come from an earlier, smaller reading of the reviews. They undercount how many cooks said each thing, so treat them as a floor rather than a total.

      What varies

      What actually changes your macaroni and cheese

      Some ingredients are argued over from recipe to recipe. Others every author already agrees on. Knowing which is which saves you the experiment.

      Cooks and authors still disagree about the top group. The bottom group is settled, which is a finding rather than a gap.
      IngredientWhat changing it doesStatus
      Cheese More cheese keeps the fat and water bound together, so the sauce stays smooth instead of turning grainy.recipes vary this
      Milk or cream More milk or cream holds water in the crumb, so it eats chewier and stays soft longer.recipes vary this
      Butter recipes vary this
      Thickener More thickener thickens the sauce and steadies it.recipes vary this
      Egg More egg gives the browning reaction more to work with, so it colours faster and tastes more toasted.recipes vary this
      Salt recipes vary this
      Aromatics recipes vary this
      The topping More the topping gives the browning reaction more to work with, so it colours faster and tastes more toasted.recipes vary this
      Cheese variety idx recipes vary this
      How meltable the cheese blend is More how meltable the cheese blend is keeps the fat and water bound together, so the sauce stays smooth instead of turning grainy.recipes vary this
      How aged the cheese blend is More how aged the cheese blend is makes the cheese taste stronger.recipes vary this
      How stretchy the cheese blend is More how stretchy the cheese blend is gives longer protein chains to pull on, so the cheese strings when you lift the spoon.recipes vary this
      Portion recipes vary this
      Acid nobody turns this knob
      Why it works

      Why these changes work

      Every change above works through one of these. None of it is magic and none of it needs a thermometer.

      Moisture retention

      Invert sugar in molasses binds water and holds it in the crumb after baking. Retained water is what chew is.

      Maillard browning

      Reducing sugars plus amino acids from egg and flour, under heat and favourable pH, produce colour and the toasted flavours that read as 'baked'.

      Cheese emulsion stability

      Heat makes casein proteins clump and squeeze out the fat and water they were holding — that is what grainy, broken sauce is. Young moist cheese resists it; aged dry cheese, whose protein is already fragmented, gives way soonest. Starch or an emulsifying salt is what holds the two phases together.

      Casein chain length

      Stretch comes from long, intact casein chains bridged by calcium. Ageing chops those chains, so aged cheese melts smooth but will not pull. Emulsifying salts — in sodium citrate and in American cheese alike — dismantle the same calcium bridges deliberately, which is why the silkiest sauces are also the least stretchy.

      Flavour concentration

      Sharpness comes from proteolysis during ageing — free amino acids built up over months. It can be diluted by liquid or physically masked by starch, neither of which removes any cheese.

      The whole set

      All 117, grouped by the kind of macaroni and cheese they make

      Grouped by measured texture rather than by title, which is why a few recipes sit in a group their own name would not suggest. Sorted by how many cooks have rated them.

      Baked · 57

      Show the other 49 baked recipes
      Mac and Cheese 4.86★ 183

      Stovetop · 38

      Show the other 30 stovetop recipes

      Pressure cooker · 11

      Show the other 3 pressure cooker recipes

      Slow cooker · 11

      Show the other 3 slow cooker recipes
      Honesty

      What we can't tell you

      The useful half of any measurement is knowing where it stops.

      Comparisons, not scores

      We can say one recipe reads further along an axis than another. We cannot put a number on it, and we do not pretend to.

      Direction, not magnitude

      Where we can name something that measurably changes the result, we can say which way it pushes. We still cannot tell you where your own macaroni and cheese will land, because that also depends on your kitchen and your equipment. here is what we can tell you when it goes wrong.

      Some sites give ratings but no words

      A few publishers load their reviews from somewhere we cannot read. Their star ratings count toward how trusted a recipe is; their comments could not tell us anything about what cooks changed.