Make it creamier · richer · sharper
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More cheese went with recipes that came out sharper, across 259 versions. Heat makes casein proteins clump and squeeze out the fat and water they were holding — that is what grainy, broken sauce is. Young moist cheese resists it; aged dry cheese, whose protein is already fragmented, gives way soonest. Starch or an emulsifying salt is what holds the two phases together.
Costs you: Nothing else moved that we can measure. We only detect 7 of the 60 changes cooks describe, so read that as unmeasured rather than free.
measured across many versions · 259 versions
Make it milder
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More milk or cream went with recipes that came out milder, across 259 versions. Sharpness comes from proteolysis during ageing — free amino acids built up over months. It can be diluted by liquid or physically masked by starch, neither of which removes any cheese.
Costs you: Nothing else moved that we can measure. We only detect 7 of the 60 changes cooks describe, so read that as unmeasured rather than free.
measured across many versions · 259 versions
Make it saltier
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More salt went with recipes that came out saltier, across 148 versions.
Costs you: Nothing else moved that we can measure. We only detect 7 of the 60 changes cooks describe, so read that as unmeasured rather than free.
measured, on a smaller set · 148 versions